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Battambang Cambodia Travel Guide
This sprawling province has a range of tourist sites including Angkor-period temples, mountain viewpoints, wetlands and typical day-to-day rural scenery. Despite the wealth of attractions, Battambang province makes it onto the itinerary of relatively few travellers, making it a fabulous off-the-beaten-track destination.
The provincial capital of the same-named province, Battambang is Cambodia`s second largest city and one of our all-time favourite spots in Cambodia. A relaxed and laid-back town, Battambang is primarily a farmer and trader town, a refreshing change from far more touristy Siem Reap.
Set across the banks of the Sangker River, the bulk of the town`s restaurants, hotels and attractions are to the west. It is a pleasant place to explore for a day or two on foot and forms a perfect base for trips into the surrounding area, where there`s plenty to see and do.
Battambang is best known for its Angkor-period ruins at Ek Phnom and Phnom Banan, but there`s also Phnom Sampeau — the site of the local Killing Fields.
Big-ticket attractions aside, what often swings it for Battambang is the laid back, sleepy feel to the place. It`s an attractive town in a rundown kind of way with a few colonial shopfronts and pretty tree-lined streets. Spend an evening by the riverfront munching away on fried bugs and other critters and no doubt you`ll be sold.
One oddity of Battambang province is the rain gambling. Although it does happen all over Cambodia, this is the epicentre of the phenomenon. Fortunes are won and lost betting how much rain will fall at a given place at a given time. When in the capital, keep an eye out for people clustered on the roofs of the buildings overlooking the central bus station. Clutching walkie-talkies, they`re communicating with both their rain-spotters who are scattered across the surrounds monitoring the clouds and their bookies at Phsar Boeung Chhoeuk. The bookies can be a bit shy about having their photo taken, but they`re not too worried if you`re just there to check it out.
Battambang is Khmer for "disappearing stick", referring to a legend about a cowherd named Ta Dambong who found a magic stick and used it to usurp the then-king. The king`s son ran off to the woods and became a monk. In the meantime, Ta Dambong had a dream that a holy man on a white horse would vanquish him, so he decided it would be a good idea to have all the holy men rounded up and put to death. When the prince heard he was required to go into town, a hermit came up and gave him a white horse. When the prince got on the horse he found it could fly. When he flew into town, Ta Dambong realised his dream was coming true so he threw his magic stick at the prince and did a runner. Neither he nor the magic stick was ever seen again.
Battambang province borders Siem Reap and Banteay Meanchey to the north, Pailin Special Zone and Thailand to the west, Pursat to the south and east and the Tonle Sap to the east. The provincial capital is linked to Phnom Penh by an excellent all weather road and to Siem Reap by a slightly more patchy affair. You can also travel by boat from Battambang to Siem Reap — a stunningly beautiful (if occasionally very slow) way to cross the broad Tonle Sap.
Our recommendations
With Cambodia`s number one tourist destination, Siem Reap, but a couple of hours away, you`d think Battambang would do a decent trade in tourists, but it`s surprising just how few bother to check it out. That`s their loss and your gain as far as we`re concerned — as Battambang is absolutely worth at least an overnight`s stay.
if you`re thinking of seeing Battambang on a short jaunt from Siem Reap before returning to the same, consider doing one way by land, the other by boat — just be prepared for a pretty rough and ready experience when it comes to the boat trip.
Once you`re safely ensconced in Battambang, make sure you organise a motorbike trip into the surrounds — allow at least half a day to see the highlights. There are no shortage of English-speaking motos will be on hand to guide your way.
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